1:1280

Geiranger #1

Geiranger #1

That’s the ratio between townsfolk living in Geiranger year-round and cruise passengers visiting during the tourist season.

Geiranger #2

Geiranger #2

When Wikipedia declares the place a “tourist village” you know it’s going to be bad. Cruise tourism in Geiranger can be traced back to summer of ’69. That’s 1869, of course. Since then, Geiranger, with its year-round population of 255, has grown to be the second busiest cruise port in all of Norway, with an estimated 320,000 passengers from close to 200 ships. Jeez.

Geiranger #3

Geiranger #3

Geiranger #4

Geiranger #4

Geiranger #5

Geiranger #5

Geiranger #6

Geiranger #6

Geiranger #7

Geiranger #7

Geiranger #8

Geiranger #8

Geiranger #9

Geiranger #9

Geiranger #10

Geiranger #10

Geiranger #11

Geiranger #11

Geiranger #12

Geiranger #12

Cherry Blossom Beauty

Picnic Area #1

Picnic Area #1

The Japanese tradition of hanami – the celebration of the transient beauty of flowers, observed through enjoying a nice picnic in the shade of a cherry tree – is a brilliant concept that lends itself very poorly to Norwegian weather.

Picnic Area #2

Picnic Area #2

Picnic Area #3

Picnic Area #3

Picnic Area #4

Picnic Area #4

Picnic Area #5

Picnic Area #5

Picnic Area #6

Picnic Area #6

Picnic Area #7

Picnic Area #7

Picnic Area #8

Picnic Area #8

Dark Traditions

This Saturday we celebrate Skull Sunday.

Bremanger #1

Bremanger #1

In two days time I’m leaving for Spain to not celebrate Christmas. This is an attempt to make the Christmas holiday an actual holiday (also to escape Norway’s soggy winter darkness). But before ditching all traditions, let’s observe some traditions.

Bremanger #2. Family photographs

Bremanger #2. Family photographs

Skull Sunday is a perversion of old traditions observed through need, transformed into a celebration itself. I’ve touched upon the topic before: It’s the annual eating of boiled sheep heads.

Bremanger #3

Bremanger #3

Bremanger is the island where my father grew up. The default weather here is shite. This close to winter solstice daylight lasts only for a few measly hours. The dark grey landscape is regularly lit with vulgar Christmas displays. Neon santas riding neon reindeers through neon snow are out of place in more ways than one. Mostly because this doesn’t feel like winter at all. Outside temperature was close to 13 centigrades when I got up at nine this morning. That’s a nicer temperature than we had mid summer.

Winds are rocking the old house, darkness is creeping in, half eaten half heads of lamb are piling up on the kitchen table.

It all feels very wrong in just the right way.

Bremanger #4. Workbench

Bremanger #4. Workbench

Bremanger #5. Cigarette Jesus

Bremanger #5. Cigarette Jesus

Bremanger #6. Food cooking

Bremanger #6. Food cooking

Bremanger #7. Potato

Bremanger #7. Potato

Bremanger #8. Christmas

Bremanger #8. Christmas

Bremanger #9. Food is ready

Bremanger #9. Food is ready

Bremanger #10. Road off the island (closed)

Bremanger #10. Road off the island (closed)

A Short Series Of Boring Commercial Properties In Nordfjordeid, Norway

Boring commercial propert in Nordfjordeid #1

Boring commercial property in Nordfjordeid #1

Boring commercial property in Nordfjordeid #2

Boring commercial property in Nordfjordeid #2

Boring commercial property in Nordfjordeid #3

Boring commercial property in Nordfjordeid #3

Boring commercial property in Nordfjordeid #4

Boring commercial property in Nordfjordeid #4

Boring commercial property in Nordfjordeid #5

Boring commercial property in Nordfjordeid #5

Boring commercial property in Nordfjordeid #6

Boring commercial property in Nordfjordeid #6

Easter Photographs, Off-Season

Pics from a drive through Western Norway some six months ago, forgotten until I got stung by a wasp yesterday (which in late September is kind of an off-season event. The off-season-ness is the key here. It’s not that arbitrary. Really).

#01

#01

#02

#02

#03

#03

#04

#04

#05

#05

#06

#06

#07

#07

#08

#08

#09

#09

#10

#10

#11

#11

#12

#12

#13

#13

#14

#14

#15

#15

#16

#16

Room 509

One bed, two towels, an empty fridge posing as a minibar and a view straight into the neighbouring office building where bored temps have seen it all before.

509 #1

509 #1

It’s the telephone area code for the eastern two- thirds of Washington, the year AD when King Sigobert The Lame was killed by his son Chlodoric, the Guinness World Record number of candles blown out simultaneously and the smallest Sophie Germain prime to start a 4-term Cunningham chain of the first kind (whatever that means). And it’s yet another hotel room. I’m sure that I’ve stayed at rooms numbered 509 that’s been a-okay. This was merely so-so.

509 #2

509 #2

509 #3

509 #3

509 #4

509 #4

509 #5

509 #5

509 #6

509 #6

509 #7

509 #7

509 #8

509 #8

Everything Must Go

My parents-in-law ran a smalltown department store for close to 40 years before having to close down last year. These photos document the Kragseth family’s final days as merchants in Nordfjordeid, Norway.

Kala #1. This sale is final

Kala #1. This sale is final

The combined toys and glass- and kitchenware store known as “Kala” would have celebrated its 40th anniversary on the fifth of November last year. Only they had to close down just half a year shy of that landmark occasion. A combination of age, health and economic issues meant that the days leading up to Easter last year were chosen to be the final ones for the store that had been built by my girlfriend’s parents – Mrs. Aud and Mr. Agnar Kragseth – four decades earlier.

Kala #2. The department store. Brand new

Kala #2. The department store. Brand new

Kala #3. Mrs. Aud (left) and Mr. Agnar Kragseth had some of their busiest days ever during the days of the final sale. My girlfriend Linda (centre) moved home for a few weeks to help them out

Kala #3. Mrs. Aud (left) and Mr. Agnar Kragseth had some of their busiest days ever during the days of the final sale. My girlfriend Linda (centre) moved home for a few weeks to help them out

Kala #4. Aud and Agnar met at a gathering for western expats in the Norwegian capital of Oslo in the late 1960s

Kala #4. Aud and Agnar met at a gathering for western expats in the Norwegian capital of Oslo in the early 1970s

Kala #5. Best store in the district, 1989

Kala #5. Best store in the district, 1989

Kala #6. The toy store cleaned out. Only a basket of christmas hats remain

Kala #6. The toy store cleaned out. Only a basket of christmas hats remain

Kala #7. Agnar in the office

Kala #7. Agnar in the office

Kala #8. Cheap toys, pure happiness

Kala #8. Cheap toys, pure happiness

Kala #9. Nordfjordeid is a small town (population 2,772) in western Norway

Kala #9. Nordfjordeid is a small town (population 2,772) in western Norway

Kala #10. The shop – and it's merchants – in their youth. Aud at left

Kala #10. The shop – and its merchants – in their youth. Aud at left, her sister-in-law, Liv, at right

Kala #11. Some 30 years on, the brilliant 70s blouse is replaced by a Transformers hoodie

Kala #11. Some 30 years on, Aud’s brilliant 70s blouse is replaced by a Transformers hoodie

Kala #12. Young Agnar in the store

Kala #12. Young Agnar in the store

Kala #13. Agnar in the store

Kala #13. Agnar in the store

Kala #14. The building period. Health and safety. Total lack thereof

Kala #14. The building period. Health and safety. Total lack thereof

Kala #15. The store, yesteryear

Kala #15. The store, yesteryear

Kala #16. Linda sorting through the farewell flower gifts

Kala #16. Linda sorting through the farewell flower gifts

Kala #17. Empty glassware boxes

Kala #17. Empty glassware boxes

Kala #18. Agnar closing the doors

Kala #18. Agnar closing the doors

Kala #19. Counting crowns

Kala #19. Counting crowns

Kala #20. Stairway to retirement

Kala #20. Stairway to retirement

Kala #21. One last set of locks

Kala #21. One last set of locks

Kala #22. The toast

Kala #22. The toast

Epilogue – The Bears Say Goodbye

The toy store teddybear mascots make one final appearance for a farewell ad in the local paper.

Kala #23

Kala #23

Kala #24

Kala #24

Kala #25

Kala #25

Kala #26. Ad reads "Kala is now closed"

Kala #26. Ad reads “Kala is now closed”

 

After The Boom, Slight Anxiety

When big oil spends less, an area built on oil services feels unease.

Ølen. The rig "West Alpha" as seen from a souvenir shop. The story of Norwegian oil is often referred to as a fairy tale

Ølen. The rig “West Alpha” as seen from a souvenir shop. The story of Norwegian oil is often referred to as a fairy tale

They call it “the billion mile.” Along a short stretch of road between Ølen and Vats in western Norway, in a municipality with a population less than 10,000, you find several major businesses, some with revenues well into the billions of NOK.

Ølen #2. Rigs are repaired, money is made. Usually

Ølen #2. Rigs are repaired, money is made. Usually

Most companies are connected to the oil service industry, making the entire community vulnerable to changes in the business cycles of the petroleum industry at large. In boom years, outside workers flock to the area in such numbers that one oil consultant firm even had to establish its own construction company to build housing for their new employees. That’s good for the local economy, obviously, with the town bar (smalltown bars are always good business barometers) reporting most nights as good nights. But that was then.

Ølen #3. Local bars are good business barometers. Tonight the houe band plays to an empty room

Ølen #3. Local bars are good business barometers. Tonight the house band plays to an empty room

A few weeks ago a journalist from the Norwegian Business Daily and I visited the area to see how lacking investments from the oil industries affect the community at large.

We visited the bar in question and that night the house band played to a room empty but us. Walking through the main street we saw a few closed down stores, a bunch of cats, but no people except for one kid doing car repairs, wishing to leave the place behind.

Ølen #4. Behind the shipyard temporary housing units reach far into the hills

Ølen #4. Behind the shipyard temporary housing units reach far into the hills

This is not recession as such. Norway has yet to take a hit anywhere as large as the rest of the world. But when the oil price remains steady for the third year in a row while costs increase ten per cent annually, big oil spends less on new investments. The local rig repair company, which at one time filled the hills above the yard with temporary housing units to accommodate foreign workers, is now lacking orders and has had to temporarily lay off a fifth of its employees.

So not a recession. More of a post-boom-hangover. Still, in a small place, you tend to notice things like that.

Ølen #5. Roadside car repair

Ølen #5. Roadside car repair

Ølen #6

Ølen #6

Ølen #7

Ølen #7

Vats. Scrapping decommissioned rigs

Vats. Scrapping decommissioned rigs

Vats #2

Vats #2

Vats #3

Vats #3

The story as it appeared in the Norwegian Business Daily (Dagens Næringsliv)

The story as it appeared in the Norwegian Business Daily (Dagens Næringsliv)

The story as it appeared in the Norwegian Business Daily (Dagens Næringsliv)

The story as it appeared in the Norwegian Business Daily (Dagens Næringsliv)